Hot Water Tank Float Valve

[stampedecarwash]

Hello, I had to shut off the water to entire carwash yesterday to change the relief valve on the water heater (yes we could not isolate the heater so had to shut the entire carwash). Then noticed the float valve in the hot water tank doesn't stop the flow when the tank is full (and the lever thing is up, so the spring in the mechanism should be fine). I'm hoping that that's due to some trash as we stopped and started the water perhaps some took off from the old sediments in the pipes or something. Anyways, I'd like to purchase an extra flow valve and not sure what GPM I should get. How do I know what is my GPM coming to the hot water tank? The label on the water heater says Recovery Gal/Hr: 227.76 (see pic) so my GPM is almost 4 GP M??? Also don't like the chain thing on the float as it gets tangled, so thinking to change it to the other ones with yellow ball on it (see the pics), what is your experience? Thanks guys

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[MEP001]

I prefer the Watermaster valves. For some reason the 1" last longer than the 1/2 or 3/4", maybe because the 1" has a stainless seat that doesn't get pitted. The main reason I like them is that they don't fail completely open or completely closed, worst case they slowly overfill the tank. I've had issues with almost every other type failing completely, both the DEMA and the Hydrominder not opening and the Jobe hanging wide open.

 

[2Biz]

Another good valve is the 2 stage Walters. I use the 1" valve on both hot and cold tanks and have never had one fail. The 2 stage eliminates any water hammer issues.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-2010-walters-float-valve-1-with-float.aspx

BTW, you are looking at the GPM heating capacity of the Water Heater. Two totally different things when trying to decide on the right size float valve. A 1" valve will flow about 40 gpm for reference. And I have a 4 bay SS. Never have ran out of water.