Help for rebuilding cat pump 5CP2120w

[danielc]

I have two cat pump 5CP2120w. Both has some problem. So I plan to rebuild one with these two pumps. However, I could not figure out how to remove bearings from the crankcase. On the service menu, it mentions bearing block tool. Could someone show me how to remove bearings? Thanks in advance
Daniel

 

[MEP001]

What is the problem that requires you to remove the bearings?

You don't remove the bearings from the crankcase, they're pressed onto the crankshaft. You can drive them off (Not recommended), heat the inner race (Not recommended), or take them to a machine shop and have them removed and new ones pressed back on (Assuming that's why you're doing all this).

If you're fixing an oil leak:

1) You don't have to remove the pistons despite what the service manual says,
2) You can remove the crankshaft without removing the bearings. There is just enough room to do that.

 

[Earl Weiss]

I would consider how many years / hours the pump has been in service. You may fix one issue only to be confronted by another some years down the road.

 

[Kevin James]

Can you say DUMPSTER!! When Cat 310 or a 5CP crank case or rear unit goes bad it goes into the dumpster. We don’t even try to repair them.

 

[tdlconceptsllc]

I replaced the rear crankcase bearings in a CAT 310 & 3535 so fast make your head spin, and they last 3-5 years or longer been doing it for 9 years at my Carwash and Customers Washes I service.

I take the head off the pump. drain oil out of crankcase take the pulley off. Take Both endcaps and the crankcase plate on the bottom end off take a soft orange dead blow hammer & hammer out the crankshaft note all connecting rods must be pushed forward or it will break a rod when hammering. one of the bearings will come out on the crankshaft tap it off gently and do the same for the other side and gently tap all bearings back in place with a 2x4 and re-assemble connecting rods. Only time I don't do this is if the housing is cracked. I guess I am the only guy on here that does this.

You can buy the bearings from Kleen rite or get a cross reference little tiny number on the bearings for like $16 from advance auto same exact bearing from CAT. also the side crankcase caps there's a little black oil seal that will need replaced when this is done.
I have done this 15 times at least and 9 out of 10 times its the pulley side that the bearing is bad.

 

[danielc]

Thank you for the detailed description. It will definitely help me. I have two questions
(1) when hammer out the crankshaft, does it matter which side I should hammer?
(2) When you mentioned "back in place with a 2x4", what is 2x4?

Regarding issues I have, I have one pump with bearing broken on pulley side; one pump with crankcase broken (I have a spare crankcase); one pump no pressure on wash, only on rinse; and one pump for some reason overheating (pump head and water very hot when run). Too many issues for me to throw them away

 

[MEP001]

The "no pressure on wash" issue is a stuck check valve on the hot water line, or possibly a very bad air leak in the soap or wax line.

THe one with the head overheating is most likely from running with a full shutoff gun instead of a weep gun. You can use a full shutoff, but you have to run an unloader instead of a regulator so the pump runs with no pressure when the trigger isn't pulled.

 

[tdlconceptsllc]

Thank you for the detailed description. It will definitely help me. I have two questions
(1) when hammer out the crankshaft, does it matter which side I should hammer?
(2) When you mentioned "back in place with a 2x4", what is 2x4

1. It doesn't matter truthfully which ever bearing is stuck on the crankshaft your going to have to get it off by putting it in a vise and tapping it off with a big flat head screwdriver and hammer.


2. When I said a 2x4 is a term that a country boy says for a peice of wood I place on the end of the crankshaft when Tapping it out so no damage is done to the shaft or when placing the bearing back In.

3. If you have never rebuilt engines, motors or not a good mechanic or technically advanced you might should not try this any of this. worst case senero you mess up the first pump pay attention to everything in the process and learn from your mistakes. Take pictures with your phone for reference I am sure you are sharp enough for all this anyways. Go to cat pumps website for a parts breakdown cut sheet.

4. You can do it this way also if you understand leave the connecting rods in place with the head everything still hooked up cut the bearing or Tap the bearing from the inside out from the rear crankcase if your very careful then just tap the new bearings back in place. A Little more risky vibration/ Tapping can crack the ceramic plungers when doing it this way but I have done it, not suggested the first time. I have done just one bearing like this with it on the pump stand hooked up and all in under 10mins. Try it this way after you have rebuilt about 5-8 of them so you fully understand what your doing. Good luck.

Something else when your doing all this your going to get very nasty and dirty keep several shop rags and 3-4 cans of brake cleaner degreaser ready to clean and wipe down all the metal shavings and broken bearing peices inside the housing. Inspect the actual crankshaft itself for excessive wear. also use a torque wrench when tightening everything down back to CAT spec"s I know if you tighten the connecting rods to tight with no play the pump will not spin freely from personal experience.

 

[mjwalsh]

The "no pressure on wash" issue is a stuck check valve on the hot water line, or possibly a very bad air leak in the soap or wax line.

THe one with the head overheating is most likely from running with a full shutoff gun instead of a weep gun. You can use a full shutoff, but you have to run an unloader instead of a regulator so the pump runs with no pressure when the trigger isn't pulled.

Just want to add as something to consider ... the bypass hose used with the unloader or a regulator & a line a froze or whatever plug situation ... the water will get extremely hot within that bypass hose ... if run very long with both the weep or full shut off gun in a frozen line or frozen nozzle situation.

 

[danielc]

Thank you all for your good advise and suggestion. Hopefully, I can make these pumps work again.

MEP001: I do not think I have hot water line in the car wash. I did not feel much temperature on other pump's heads while pump running, but this one is really hot.

 

[MEP001]

Just want to add as something to consider ... the bypass hose used with the unloader or a regulator & a line a froze or whatever plug situation ... the water will get extremely hot within that bypass hose ... if run very long with both the weep or full shut off gun in a frozen line or frozen nozzle situation.

Not with a properly functioning unloader. And I rather doubt he's having freezing weather in July in Louisiana.

 

[MEP001]

MEP001: I do not think I have hot water line in the car wash. I did not feel much temperature on other pump's heads while pump running, but this one is really hot.

You may not have hot water working, but most likely there is a solenoid that supplies the pump with city pressure on the rinse selection and a line to a tank it draws from on soap and wax. If this is the case, there will be a check valve on the line to the tank, and it's that valve which is probably stuck closed.

 

[danielc]

You may not have hot water working, but most likely there is a solenoid that supplies the pump with city pressure on the rinse selection and a line to a tank it draws from on soap and wax. If this is the case, there will be a check valve on the line to the tank, and it's that valve which is probably stuck closed.

Thank you.
Could you please take a look at plumbing drawing? I am not sure how this works, which one is check valve.
By the way, I did replace the gun from non-weeping to weep. However, the pump header still gets hot when running.
Thank you
View attachment 785View attachment 784

 

[danielc]

Thank you for the detailed description. It will definitely help me. I have two questions
(1) when hammer out the crankshaft, does it matter which side I should hammer?
(2) When you mentioned "back in place with a 2x4", what is 2x4

1. It doesn't matter truthfully which ever bearing is stuck on the crankshaft your going to have to get it off by putting it in a vise and tapping it off with a big flat head screwdriver and hammer.


2. When I said a 2x4 is a term that a country boy says for a peice of wood I place on the end of the crankshaft when Tapping it out so no damage is done to the shaft or when placing the bearing back In.

3. If you have never rebuilt engines, motors or not a good mechanic or technically advanced you might should not try this any of this. worst case senero you mess up the first pump pay attention to everything in the process and learn from your mistakes. Take pictures with your phone for reference I am sure you are sharp enough for all this anyways. Go to cat pumps website for a parts breakdown cut sheet.

4. You can do it this way also if you understand leave the connecting rods in place with the head everything still hooked up cut the bearing or Tap the bearing from the inside out from the rear crankcase if your very careful then just tap the new bearings back in place. A Little more risky vibration/ Tapping can crack the ceramic plungers when doing it this way but I have done it, not suggested the first time. I have done just one bearing like this with it on the pump stand hooked up and all in under 10mins. Try it this way after you have rebuilt about 5-8 of them so you fully understand what your doing. Good luck.

Something else when your doing all this your going to get very nasty and dirty keep several shop rags and 3-4 cans of brake cleaner degreaser ready to clean and wipe down all the metal shavings and broken bearing peices inside the housing. Inspect the actual crankshaft itself for excessive wear. also use a torque wrench when tightening everything down back to CAT spec"s I know if you tighten the connecting rods to tight with no play the pump will not spin freely from personal experience.

Quick question about bearings. The former owner left a number of bearings, but they are sealed bearing (6305-2RS). The one removed from the pump is 6305. Can 6305-2RS be used for the pump? Thanks

 

[MEP001]

The Cat pump bearings are not sealed. I would not try to use sealed bearing in it.

The picture is too small and doesn't show the whole plumbing setup. It looks like you have more than one check valve on the inlet - whichever one leads back to the water tank in your diagram is the one that's stuck closed.

 

[danielc]

Thank you for all your help.
I have rebuilt the pump, will try later if it is a success
The pump with overheating runs fine now after replaced check valve, regulator and nozzle.
The pump with no pressure on wash looks better after changed check valve. However, the pump pressure is low at around 500psi. I tried to adjust regulator, it has no response at all. Could be the regulator bad?

 

[MEP001]

If you can turn the pressure down but not up past 500 psi, the regulator is probably fine. Check the nozzle, if it's damaged or badly eroded it won't make the pressure it should.

 

[tdlconceptsllc]

if the Tip change out dosnt work probably need a seal kit is what I would start to point too.