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Floor Heat PEX Repair

DiamondWash

DiamondWash

Well-known member
About to break up my exit side of my automatic to fix a leak, what connection fitting for the Red 1/2in PEX tubing is to be used? and I hear that a "protective sleeve" should be installed over the new fitting so that the new concrete doesn't affect the fitting something like shrink tubing for protection.
 
Not a lot of pressure in the floor heat.
I used parker fittings to repair mine. Been working fine for 4 years so far, no leaks.
 
I checked with shark-bite fittings at home depot to see if they would accept glycol, even had the employee (who was a plumber) call cash acme to verify that barb style fittings would work with stainless steel cinch clamps and not corrode everything, came back yes it would work. Now I want to have heat shrink to ensure protection but others said to use a PVC pipe with the ends covered to protect from concrete what would you suggest?
 
DiamondWash said:
I checked with shark-bite fittings at home depot to see if they would accept glycol, even had the employee (who was a plumber) call cash acme to verify that barb style fittings would work with stainless steel cinch clamps and not corrode everything, came back yes it would work. Now I want to have heat shrink to ensure protection but others said to use a PVC pipe with the ends covered to protect from concrete what would you suggest?
Click to expand...

I've done a fair bit of underground cable repairs in my time and I would say Skrink. Especially if you using the right kind with the flooding compound. Easier to use and seals better.
 
Been “chasing” a floor heat leak for the last year.

1. Pressurized the system and listened really hard…no hiss.
2. Hired a thermal-imaging guy…no evidence found.
3. Installed a float switch in the “expansion” tank to control an air-powered pump…to keep the system full
4. Just refilled the 30 gallon glycol supply tank for the 2nd time in the past 30 days…(that’s spendy)
5. Read ibspud’s post about FixaLeak
6. Called them…was told it should work…available at pool and spa supply stores
7. Found it at the 2nd store called
8. Bought 2 quarts at $40/ea...really cheap if it works...not too expensive if it doesn't
9. Added 1 quart to the system this afternoon
10. Will report results after the expected 48 hour “curing” time
11. Will post YouTube of my happy dance if it works
 
cantbreak80 said:
Been “chasing” a floor heat leak for the last year.

1. Pressurized the system and listened really hard…no hiss.
2. Hired a thermal-imaging guy…no evidence found.
3. Installed a float switch in the “expansion” tank to control an air-powered pump…to keep the system full
4. Just refilled the 30 gallon glycol supply tank for the 2nd time in the past 30 days…(that’s spendy)
5. Read ibspud’s post about FixaLeak
6. Called them…was told it should work…available at pool and spa supply stores
7. Found it at the 2nd store called
8. Bought 2 quarts at $40/ea...really cheap if it works...not too expensive if it doesn't
9. Added 1 quart to the system this afternoon
10. Will report results after the expected 48 hour “curing” time
11. Will post YouTube of my happy dance if it works
Click to expand...

Keep us posted. I have also have a leak I'm unable to locate. It seems to leak when the system is not running. Could not locate it with a thermal imaging camera since it doesn't seem to leak when running.
 
It’s been a week since I added one quart of Fix-a-Leak to my floor heat system.

I forced both circulating pumps to run continuously for 3 days, and then allowed the system to operate normally
(thermostatically controlled).

After 24 hours, my automatic filling system has not added an ounce of glycol mixture.

Until further notice, I declare myself amazed and my floor heat system leak free.
A $40 bottle of Fix-a-Leak may have saved me upwards of $20,000 in concrete work.

(I don’t know how to YouTube. You’re lucky…You really don’t want to see my fat butt doing my happy dance.)
 
cantbreak80 said:
...Bought 2 quarts at $40/ea...really cheap if it works...not too expensive if it doesn't
9. Added 1 quart to the system this afternoon...
Click to expand...

Did you just buy this at your local pool supply store? Also, did you simply mix it into your expansion tank and run the circulator pump for 48hours with no heat added?

How does it know to plug the leak in your PEX and not clog up any of the orifices?
 
My FH boiler is on the roof, making it troublesome to add glycol mixture to the tank. So, when the system was installed we added a filling port in the return piping. To initially fill the system, a Flojet was used to pump the approximately 90 gallons of glycol mixture into the plumbing.

When the system started leaking I automated the “Keep Full” by placing a 30 gallon drum near the filling port. A float switch was added to the boiler’s expansion tank. A solenoid valve is activated by the float switch. The solenoid valve supplies compressed air to the Flojet. The Flojet pumps the glycol mix from the drum into the FH filling port.

So, to add the Fix-a-Leak to the system I simply inserted the Flojet’s inlet hose into the quart bottle and energized the solenoid. The floor heat pumps were then forced to run constantly. The boiler was not disabled during this time, so the system maintained the return fluid setpoint at 70 degrees.

After 48 hours I returned the circulating pumps to automatic and the system was allowed to cycle normally…off at 38 degrees outside air temperature. We’ve had daytime temps into the 50s and nighttime temps down to low 20s during the past week.

After a week, the glycol reservoir has remained full indicating the system is no longer leaking.

As to how it works??? Beats me. The product is a thick viscous liquid…kinda looks like thin silicone sealer. The only orifice that might get clogged would be the pressure gauge and since there’s no pressure on the system I don’t care about that gauge.

Additional 411…
My system is old black poly pipe (sprinkler pipe?) and new PEX…I suspect the old poly to be the leaker.
I flushed the Flojet with a gallon of glycol mixture after pumping the Fix-A-Leak…and tested it yesterday to make sure it was still functioning.
I purchased the Fix-A-Leak from a local Pool and Spa business…it’s also available online…search “Marlig Fix-a-Leak”.
 
Good for you! I want to try it.

What procedure did you use to add it to the system? The instructions mention to let it set 48 hours after circulation. I see it is available at Amazon (third party venders).

Thanks again for sharing the info with us.
 
I found and ordered it at: www.inyopools.com $34.95 + shipping. Let's hope it works, I've had a pesky floor heat leak under my concrete for some time. I've just been adding glycol on a regular basis throughout the winters.
 
A couple weeks ago I poured in a bottle of fix-a-leak. I ran the pump continuous for 3 days. Then I shut it down for the fix-a-leak to cure for at least 48 hours as per instructions. I fired everything up a few days ago. Time will tell but it looks very good. The system has run and cycled several times and it is maintaining the fluid level.
 
cantbreak and Ric - how much of the fix a leak did you put in your system? I went ahead and bought the large bottle, but i'm sure i don't need that much. The wash i'm planning to use it at has 6 self serve bays, so i was thinking 4 or 8oz would suffice?
 
Jeff,

I used 1 quart of FixALeak for heated area equivalent to 16 self service bays.

Since the FixALeak "treatment" no glycol mixture has been required in 28 days! Daytime temps up to 70...nighttime temps as low at 15.

I deem the fh system leak free!

Thank you FixALeak!!!!!
 
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