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Fleck 2900s Water Softener

J

Jeff_L

Well-known member
I installed a new Fleck 2900s water softener with a 24"x72" tank, and have had great soft water for the past couple of weeks. When it came time to regenerate, it went through it's cycles and did it's thing (or so I thought). I tested the output after the regeneration and it was still hard.

After troubleshooting, I discovered that during the brine rinse cycle that instead of drawing the brine, it was actually pushing water to the brine tank. All other cycles seem to work fine.

I have been receiving great support from Windtrax and Wood Bros trying to diagnose the problem:
  • Brine tube plugged? No
  • Injector clogged? No
  • Drain clogged or too small? No
  • Plumbed to correct input/output? Yes
  • Input pressure? 72psi

I had the choice of either receiving a new valve or upper seal kit. I opted for the upper seal kit since it would be simpler to replace. I hope to be receiving it soon. I don't know what could be wrong with the seals to cause this not to happen, but maybe one got pinched or broken during install at the factory.

So here's my question. Have any of you experienced this on a brand new water softner? I thought the answer would be simple, but it doesn't appear to be. Maybe one of you smart guys would know the answer and put my mind to rest while I wait for the parts.
 
The seal kits are hard to replace without a "stuffer" tool. Be careful when you disassemble it.....parts can fall down into the unit/tank upon removal.

FWIW....I can't remember if it was the upper, or lower seals....however I remember using a piece of PVC pipe as a makeshift "tool" to restuff the seals....and it wasn't easy. The stuffer tool made it pretty easy.
 
Did you fill the salt tank with water when you installed the system? This is needed so that when the first regeneration cycle comes there is something in the tank for the softner to draw out. Then it refills the salt tank after a flush so the water is ready for the next regeneration. If no water was in the tank then it had nothing to draw to flush the softner beads. Try hitting the manual regeneration switch now and see if it works.
 
If the seals/spacers are out of place or damaged it will not create suction on the brine cycle and will put flow into the tank instead. As Rudy said, it's difficult to replace them without the proper tool, but it can be done. Get some silicone grease to help them slide in, and use a long screwdriver to make sure they don't fall down where they shouldn't go.

If you've never taken apart a softener head to replace parts, it's easier than it looks. Don't disconnect the piston, just unhook the brine valve tube and remove the bolts that hold the back plate to the head, and you can pull the plate and piston right off.

When you're putting it back together, the first thing to go in is the solid plastic ring. From there you'll alternate seal/spacer, with the last part being a spacer.
 
Rudy said:
The seal kits are hard to replace without a "stuffer" tool. Be careful when you disassemble it.....parts can fall down into the unit/tank upon removal.

FWIW....I can't remember if it was the upper, or lower seals....however I remember using a piece of PVC pipe as a makeshift "tool" to restuff the seals....and it wasn't easy. The stuffer tool made it pretty easy.
Click to expand...

Rudy & others,

Does anyone know the availability & cost of this special "stuffer tool"?

MikeW
 
I bought all of my rebuilding parts from Wood Bros. They had a so called "loaner" program for the tools. If I remember correctly....you bought the tools, and then upon returning them, you were refunded (75% ????) of the purchase price.

All I remember was thinking, "Man, I'm sure glad I decided to get the tools regardless of what it cost". It saved me a LOT of time and hassle.
 
Rudy said:
All I remember was thinking, "Man, I'm sure glad I decided to get the tools regardless of what it cost". It saved me a LOT of time and hassle.
Click to expand...

Rudy & others,

Thanks for the excellent lead. About the tools ... we learned the hard way on some crimping tools for when we built our dog wash & a few other adventures ... that the right tool can be a make or break situation. In my opinion, it is better to be aware of the needed or helpful tools BEFORE starting a project ... based on our humble experience.

mike walsh king koin car wash www.kingkoin.com
 
Rudy said:
The seal kits are hard to replace without a "stuffer" tool. Be careful when you disassemble it.....parts can fall down into the unit/tank upon removal......
Click to expand...

Thanks - they are sending puller/stuffer tools with the seal kit. I just wanted to mention again that Wood Bros and Windtrax have been very helpful in troubleshooting over the phone. Windtrax even offered to send someone out to help.


soapy said:
Did you fill the salt tank with water when you installed the system?...
Click to expand...

No, I didn't even think of that. I thought the cycle was to fill the brine tank before it drew from it, but I was wrong. After it went through it's first regeneration, the brine tank filled up. So I tried it again, but it did not draw. I was hoping you were onto something, such as "sucking air killed your seal kit". :)

MEP001 said:
...Get some silicone grease to help them slide in, and use a long screwdriver to make sure they don't fall down where they shouldn't go.

If you've never taken apart a softener head to replace parts, it's easier than it looks. Don't disconnect the piston, just unhook the brine valve tube and remove the bolts that hold the back plate to the head, and you can pull the plate and piston right off.

When you're putting it back together, the first thing to go in is the solid plastic ring. From there you'll alternate seal/spacer, with the last part being a spacer.
Click to expand...

Yep, I already have it apart and am awaiting the tools and seal kit. I didn't take the piston apart, left it connected to the back plate.


Hopefully the issue is with the seals, I can't wait to get them out and take a look. Do you grease both the seal and the spacer or just the seal?
 
Rudy said:
You said "grease"....but I'm not sure that's what you mean. Grease is the wrong stuff. I use Sil-glide for o-rings. It's sticky enough to hold seals and orings in place during reassembly and it also lubricates. I got mine at a local auto supply store. It's invaluable around a car wash.....

http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/industrial/197
Click to expand...

Rudy & others,

At a swimming pool supply place we purchased a tube of silicone that is supposed to be a bit better than Sil-Glyde that we also use. The reasoning is that the silicone does not deteriorate rubber whereas petroleum based grease can.

MikeW
 
mjwalsh said:
At a swimming pool supply place we purchased a tube of silicone that is supposed to be a bit better than Sil-Glyde that we also use. The reasoning is that the silicone does not deteriorate rubber whereas petroleum based grease can.
Click to expand...
Sil-Glyde doesn't contain petroleum either. "Lubricating" the seals is only for reassembling the parts anyway and not required for the operation of the unit.
 
I am not sure that it applies here but I have heard that a silicone based lubricant can also act as a preservative of rubber.
 
Wanted to close the loop on this. Wood Bros sent me a new seal kit (washers & spacers) and Windtrax offered assistance with removing the current ones and installing the new ones. We didn't find anything broken or smashed with the ones we removed, however after installing the new ones everything works now. Good to see vendors and distributors willing to help out.

I can only assume something got knocked out of place which didn't allow the brine to be drawn into the tank.

Case closed.
 
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