I read through the older discussions here regarding getting a dry car, and still ahve a question. On some newer tunnels I am seeing a spot free arch. There are two issues here that are not right. Only 6 feet from rain arch to blowers and no beading on the cars. Can't do anything about the distance and I can get the drying agent to work right, but I am still wondering about the RO. I sort of remember on the old forum a discussion where most operators agreed RO wasn't needed. Has this changed?
Final rinse - RO ?
- Thread starter mac
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RykoPro
Technician/Manager
RO is only going to help with the spotting of the water that does not get blown off with the dryer. If you can get the car dry with just the Wax (what the hell is drying agent anyway) then I would not use the RO.
If the water is not beading the RO its because either the "drying agent" sucks, not enough is being applied or you are too close to the dryer and the wax does not have time to bead the RO.
Is drying agent like the old RYKO "rinse off", it was only used when the customer did not get a dry. I prefer to use quality wax, clear coat protectorant or surface sealant.
If the water is not beading the RO its because either the "drying agent" sucks, not enough is being applied or you are too close to the dryer and the wax does not have time to bead the RO.
Is drying agent like the old RYKO "rinse off", it was only used when the customer did not get a dry. I prefer to use quality wax, clear coat protectorant or surface sealant.
In some of the newer set ups (especially Express Exteriors) where no one towel dries the vehicles RO rinses are in place to avoid spotting when the vehicle dries. RO water actually adversely affects the drying agent's ability to bead because it reduces the surface tension of the water on the surface. Drying agent is actually one of the only products that has a "window". If you use too little or too much it will not work well. It could be the product you are using but I think that since the arches are that close I would not expect to see much beading or "break" depending on the conveyor speed.
Earl Weiss
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Need more info. Is the rain arch applying the drying agent or is it a setting arch after the drying agent?
Also, if there is soap residue on the car it will counteract effects of the drying agent. I have done the following depending on the tunnel to make the drying agent more effective.
1. The last set of friction equip is flushed with fresh water, while I usualy prefer a soap injection to keep everything clean and slippery, in a shorter tunnel this was needed to help get the soap residue off.
2. Adding a fresh water rinse before the drying agent.
3. Adding a rinse a couple of feet before the drying agent with a smaller dilution of drying agent to rinse and counteract any residual soap.
4. Doubled up on the top nozzle of the setting arch so that there was a second one 6 inches after the first. Not sure why things improved but it did.
5. Applying drying agent with a piston pump so that the pressure of the application really displaced any residual soap.
Also, if there is soap residue on the car it will counteract effects of the drying agent. I have done the following depending on the tunnel to make the drying agent more effective.
1. The last set of friction equip is flushed with fresh water, while I usualy prefer a soap injection to keep everything clean and slippery, in a shorter tunnel this was needed to help get the soap residue off.
2. Adding a fresh water rinse before the drying agent.
3. Adding a rinse a couple of feet before the drying agent with a smaller dilution of drying agent to rinse and counteract any residual soap.
4. Doubled up on the top nozzle of the setting arch so that there was a second one 6 inches after the first. Not sure why things improved but it did.
5. Applying drying agent with a piston pump so that the pressure of the application really displaced any residual soap.
Chemistry plays a role
Chemistry also plays a role here. If you are using a high ph pre-soak or soap and not getting it off the car prior to drying agent and rinse you will have a hard time getting the car to bead. Make a low ph the last chemical that hits the vehicle. We had to do this at en express I was running. We noticed our higher end washes beading much better than our low end washes. Higher ends were getting a low ph foam polish as the last chemical, whereas, we were going low ph pre-soak and high ph soap as our only two chemicals on the low end. Switched our chemicals and went high ph pre-soak and low ph soap as well as low ph foam on our wraps and fixed the problem.
John Moran
Chemistry also plays a role here. If you are using a high ph pre-soak or soap and not getting it off the car prior to drying agent and rinse you will have a hard time getting the car to bead. Make a low ph the last chemical that hits the vehicle. We had to do this at en express I was running. We noticed our higher end washes beading much better than our low end washes. Higher ends were getting a low ph foam polish as the last chemical, whereas, we were going low ph pre-soak and high ph soap as our only two chemicals on the low end. Switched our chemicals and went high ph pre-soak and low ph soap as well as low ph foam on our wraps and fixed the problem.
John Moran
Just a little follow up on this wash. I turned off the RO final rinse which was basically coming on at the same time as the drying agent. Both are on the same arch. The water beads up and drying is improved. This is a Lexus dealer and they have people to wipe the car down, so spotting wasn't really an issue. Now there is just less water to wipe off.
mmurra
Member
It is harder to dry cars with RO. We are trying this month (December), turning off the RO, with the idea that getting a dryer car in the winter months is preferable to a SFR with a wetter finish. As well, road salt and film redeposit more in the winter (Michigan), when the roads are sanded and salted. Customers are less likely to get out and use the drying towels we provide, in the winter. We'll let you know how it comes out!
