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Entrance & Exit Aprons for Automatic

Etowah
B

Bubbles Galore

Active member
What is necessary, what is not? I have heard conflicting stories from different operators and distributors. Most have said that an entrance apron isn't really necessary, just an exit one.

Does anyone have any tips for tying into an existing system? This will be my first jump into it and want to make sure that I do it the right way...ripping up concrete is pretty expensive.
 
I assume you're referring to heating the aprons. Certainly a lot has to do with the climate; some would also have to do with water overspray on the entrance.
 
Yeah, sorry for not clarifying that. I fully intend on heating them, but I don't want to spend unncessary money if I don't have to.
 
Which way does your wash face? If the entrance is on the north side it will be shaded most of the time. Which way does the wind usually blow? Mine usually comes from the southwest so when the doors are open I also have overspray coming out of the entrance. My entrance is slightly uphill also. I heat it out about 25' so cars won't have traction troubles. If a vehicle must make a sharp turn immediately after exiting you may want to consider heating the apron. As you can see, your site should dictate whether you need to heat or not. If it were me, I would at least put in the tubing. You could maybe go without it for a while to see whether you need it or not. A couple of ball valves will allow you to turn it on or off as needed as well.
 
Look, if your climate gets below freezing ever, put floor heat tubing in entry and exit pads.

I skimped due to inexperience. Big mistake. Rookie mistake.
 
I initially only did the entrance when I did my bay conversion to an IBA. After the first winter I did the exit end. The ice build up from the over spray was a problem. I have one overhead door on the exit end. I'm in west MI.
 
What is the recommended distance that I should go out from my bays? The entrance will have a fairly standard pitch away from the bay and the exit will be pretty much flat but a turn will be required upon exit. Thoughts?

Take a look at this link to a google maps satellite view of my site. The bay to the south (furthest from the entrance) is where the auto will be going.
 
I have 2 IBA on opposite ends of the building. Entrance on west side, exit on east side. One has a 20' apron, the other an 8' apron, both heated. There is a 60' straight shot to exit the site. Very cold winters with lots of wind. In the cold weather both sides have an ice buildup all the way to the curb from water dripping off cars and just a small amount of runoff out of the bay. I have to keep it salted constantly. Length of apron and heat has not done much. I would definitely have lots of heat under the door threshold. Also, take pics of tubing just before pouring in case you ever have to drill or locate tubing. Lay a tape measure across the pad or door opening to give yourself a reference. Something else that helps is a shallow trench across the door opening (just inside) that can catch any water blown in that direction and send it to the drain. I did that on one side when I added my second IBA and it helps keep runoff inside the bay.
 
I don't heat the floors in my auto because we use radiant heat. We do heat the aprons and can't imagine not doing it. If I had it to do over I would have a coil under where my doors close. When it gets really cold they freeze to the floor sometimes.
 
Thanks for all the tips guys. What kind of advice can you give me for tying in my floor heat system? Where is a good supply company for the tubing and such? How should the new lines be laid? How thick should the concrete be? Should I put insulation down between the lines and the ground?

TIA!
 
I had my plumber supply the plastic lines for new construction.

I laid out blue tongue and groove foam insulation under mine and they stapled the plastic tubing to it.
 
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