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Can't find these vault covers

MEP001

Well-known member
Has anyone seen these and/or know where to get them? I was sure they were from Coleman but they are not.

53030596_2500110020002268_547570779340931072_o.jpg
 
I've never seen anything like those before. They do look pretty beefy. I think your going to have to have them custom made, looks like big bucks.
 
Already had some custom made, they're twice as thick and allow for the lock to bolt to the outer plate, plus there's a shield ring for the lock, but he wants a couple of these that he already has so he doesn't need to grind larger slots in the vault.

53190139_2500232019990068_2011888253405233152_o.jpg
 
""Already had some custom made, they're twice as thick and allow for the lock to bolt to the outer plate, plus there's a shield ring for the lock, but he wants a couple of these that he already has so he doesn't need to grind larger slots in the vault."
Don't know if it would work but I think the Coleman idea with the cover over the lock is better since it protects the surface from a drilling attack (Obviously not fool poof just ads another time element.) . The ring still leaves it exposed.
 
Don't know if it would work but I think the Coleman idea with the cover over the lock is better since it protects the surface from a drilling attack (Obviously not fool poof just ads another time element.) . The ring still leaves it exposed.

The covers in the first photo leave the lock completely exposed. I asked Dralco to add the ring so someone couldn't take a large pipe wrench and attempt to twist it off.

FWIW, I've had Dralco do the same concept but incorporated into the vault and drawer, so there's just one plate with the lock attached to it. I just need to place an order for ten before they'll do the engineering part. I already need three myself.
 
I would be interested in something like this. I just had my safes attacked and opened by a thief and its not the first time. My suggestion to improve the whole design would be the two plate design with long enough tabs to thwart prying attempts and the lug for the puck lock being actually welded to the drawer instead of the plates themselves. That would tie it all together and be the most secure I think. Definitely a ring around the puck too.
 
That's exactly what I've done, it's only one plate but the tab is welded to the drawer face. The plate is 1/4" thick. I don't think two plates would be any better if the tab is on the drawer. As long as the vault is in brick and mortar or concrete, I doubt anyone will be able to pry on the vault to pop the tab out, which will still leave the plate locked to the vault. The one I pictured in my first post is weaker and has been compromised.
 
I dig what Earl is saying. He is talking about a shroud over the lock like the high security option on some older coleman vacs where a large flat bar slides into the puck lock and then the lock is closed. Like a box with one side open to slide the lock into. Resists twisting with a pipe wrench and attacking the lock body. Either way has the keyway exposed, obviously, but the shroud covers the lock completely where the ring leaves the body of it open to attack. I highly recommend using solid stainless pucks vs the newer American 2000 series or the cheaper(not pro) Master that are cast body pucks. They are easily defeated compared to the real deal solid steel units.
 
The single plate style with the coleman box type shroud and the lug on the drawer would work great as long as the tabs going into the safe body are sufficiently long to resist being pried out. Even then, it would be a chore to get the plate off the drawer to attack the t -handle. I think I am going to make some for my drawer safes. Thanks for the ideas.
 
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