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Bob 1" FVR400-16 float

wendy's wash

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I currently have 2 Bob valves in my water holding tanks. When I put a new valve in it doesn't drip for an estimate of about two months. When these valves drip it fills up the tank and then overflows. This is been happening for years. I'm looking to find a replacement valve that doesn't drip for a long time after installing a new one. I've looked at Walter valves and Jobe. Does anyone have experience on which would be the best valve to buy. I have other things to worry about other than water leaking. This concern popped up in April 2019 when I received a $975 water bill. I have stopped all other water leaks except for the holding tanks.
 

I.B. Washincars

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I think I’ve tried all of the latest and greatest valves over my 50 years around this biz. I’ve come to the conclusion that there is no good valve. Some are better than others, but in the end, they’re all crap. I put a solenoid valve upstream from whatever float valve I am using. Using Ginsan or IDX controller to open the valve, only when a bay is “live”. Now it doesn’t matter if I have a leaky float valve.
 

soapy

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I just replaced one of mine this morning. I have been buying a large volume hydrominder type of valve from Kleenrite part number IN437pn. They usually last me a couple of years before they start dripping. Cost is about $121. I made a manifold with 4 3/4 inch solenoids and tied each one to the motor starter for the pumps. If a bay is used that valve opens to refill the hot water tank and the the float valve takes over/ Works good until a solenoid stops working and you run out of water in the tank
 

OurTown

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We have a Bob valve that was in our wash when we bought it over two years ago and have not had any issues. (just so you know I'm knocking on wood right now) After seeing I.B. Pat's setup a few months ago I think that might be the way to go. At the time his float was buried under the water but not overflowing with no one using any bays and worked fine that way. The only issue might be is if the solenoid valve failed and starved the pump(s) so make sure you use a good valve. I think he was using an Asco.
 

MEP001

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I've had the best luck with 1" Walters float valves. They last 2-3 years and are rebuildable with a diaphragm. I've never tried the Jobe but I've been told they're pretty good.
 

OurTown

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Does anyone else have experience with Bob valves? Are the newer ones not as good? You don't hear that much about them. Also does water pressure play into how long float valves last?
 

washnvac

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I agree with I.B. --There is no good valve. The Bob units have not lasted for me. They leak after a few months, as others said. I am back to the Walters. The first thing I do when I get them in is take out that cheap a$$ cotter pin, and put a stainless steel pin in. Then I date whatever tank, and I change them every 12 months. I found they were failing at 13-15 months consistently, so I just get ahead of it, and chalk it up to cost of doing business. There must be something in the water in my area that just eats them up.
 

MEP001

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There must be something in the water in my area that just eats them up.
I've wondered the same thing, I've had the 1" Walters last ten years at one wash and barely a year at another. At least they have a stainless seat so they can be rebuilt many times.
 

OurTown

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Could high or low water PH be causing them to fail early? This coupled with higher pressure might start them to leak early? Just throwing ideas out there as to why some washes seem to go through them quicker.
 

OurTown

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Also what about the float size and stem length? Could they be too small and after the seals get a little wear on them not have enough leverage to shut off the valve completely? Are the seals rated for the temperature that you are running? I'm just throwing these ideas out there to ponder.
 

OurTown

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Several of you guys were saying that there must be something in the water. I notice sediment in the bottom of our tank and surely that would cause abrasion of the valve seals and seat.
 
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