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MEP001

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waright said:
Anyone with recommendations for hamilton hopper service in the midwest?
They're really quite easy to service. The only working parts are the motor and the switch. There are a couple of details to know when changing the motor, otherwise anyone can do it with a Phillips screwdriver and a long T-handle Allen wrench.
 

mjc3333

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I agree with every post here. Randy, the Rowes are worth keeping with a mars conv. kit. I was ready to junk two of them until I put a mars in. Now I'm fighting a Hamilton dual changer, XE validators rejections, hopper jams. I have two of Etohwah's mars kits on the way, and will be buying a new hamilton hopper.

Anyone with recommendations for hamilton hopper service in the midwest? Does excel electronics service them? I have been happy with their XE validator service.
Yes, Xcel electronics does service Hamilton hoppers. I have used them for years.

Also MEP is right, the Hamilton hopper is by far the easiest hopper to maintain and fix compared to the other manufacturers.
 

waright

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I have serviced them myself in the past, but it seems like they still jam sometimes. Plus, the screw heads are stripped out on the coin wheel, so I can't get it out without destroying the little bracket. Time to let the pros at xcel service it.
 

Randy

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Jamming is normally caused by a Hopper bowl assembly #11-0017A being worn out at the bottom from the coins being rolled along the bottom of the Hopper. If you’ve got a groove worn into the bottom of the Hoper Bowl you should replace the bowl assembly.

Jamming can also be caused by using the wrong size coin pin wheel for the coin being dispensed. You can’t normally use a Quarter wheel to dispense Dollar cons or a large token.

If you’re getting coins up under the coin pin wheel, you’ve got to much end play on the motor shaft. This should be adjusted so you have about .005- .010 clearance between the motor mount plate and the wheel. I get a lot of Hoppers in from Laundromats that have a buildup of fabric softener on the wheel and the motor mounting plate. This causes the coins to fall off the wheel before they get to the coin chute.

To change a Hopper motor you need a Stubby #2 Philips screw driver, a 3/32” Allen wrench that’s at least 4 inches long and a ¼” Nut Driver.

If you can’t get the screws out that hold the coin pin wheel to the hub. Use a hand held reversible impact driver, the kind that you hit with a hammer. You have to completely dissemble the Hopper to do this but it makes getting the screws out a lot easier.

I’ve only done this once or twice so I consider myself to be an amateur at this

The Payout switch is another story.
 
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