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Anti Seize

E

Earl Weiss

Well-known member
Does any one use anti seize when replacing parts that they know will wear out in a couple of years like Takeup wheels?
 
I use anti seize in all sorts of things, stainless bolts on something that will need to be taken apart years later and/or that have to be really tight, steel bolts in pumps with aluminum crankcase housings, anything steel that has even the slightest chance it will get wet, pump and motor pulleys on shafts, etc.

I have no experience with tunnels, but for something that I don't want to rust together but I don't want to come loose (like the set screw in a pump or motor pulley) I use LocTite. It keeps water away from the threads. Yes, it can make it harder to get loose later, but never as bad as rust can.
 
Never - seize or copper coat on all bolt threads especially when putting together dissimilar metals (such as steel to aluminum). don't over do it or it will be everywhere. Do not use it on electrical connections, but definitely use it for the box screws and even the electrical box cover face (but lightly). I even put it on the electric motor shafts and couplings. Also remember most anti-seize compounds are not good lubricants for moving parts, most contain abrasive compounds.

Also if you use Loctite only use the blue unless the manufacturer of the equipment states different, the RED Loctite requires heat to remove.
 
I always keep some the stick type antiseize around. It looks like a large chap stick and less messy than the can stuff.
 
br549ms said:
Also if you use Loctite only use the blue unless the manufacturer of the equipment states different, the RED Loctite requires heat to remove.
Click to expand...

I've used red Loctite on a chuck for an air machine after someone kept stealing the chuck. They never stole it again.
 
I doubt it, but I can tell you what will. Kind of a pain, but I cut the locking ring off the claw and insert it into the cuff (I like the swivel nut type) then drill two holes and run screws with very flat Philips head through the cuff and claw and put Nylock nuts inside. The length has to be just right, I think it was 5/8" #6 button head. I'll try to find them and check. The Nylock nut is smooth so trash doesn't hook on them, and if the length is right the screw won't protrude through to grab stuff. Last I use a strip of 3M gray outdoor double-sided tape long enough to go about 1/4 way around the hose, use rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits as a lubricant and screw the cuff on. I have no problems at all with them getting stolen (or more importantly just working loose and falling off). I make up a dozen claw/cuff assemblies at a time and it takes maybe 10 minutes for a supply that lasts a good six months.

cuff4.jpg


cuff5.jpg
 
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