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Since you juiced up the prep guns (even if you hadn't) make sure you're not "over-prepping" or putting an excess amount of chemical on the car prior to the 1st presoak arch. In essence, that presoak now is being diluted with what is already on the surface of the vehicle; taking away from some of...
Maybe adding a rain bar or something to that effect. have a hard water rinse, prior to your (assuming, I didn't see you list any) drying agent/clear coat arch followed by another rinse (spot free or just normal) or increase the GPM of the spray nozzles of the rinse arch to increase the flushing...
I would suggest either direct injection a type of low pH lubricant or mounting a set of foamers prior to the mitters to apply a low pH detergent. This may aid in reducing surface tension of the cloth on the wipers and other parts of the vehicle.
As i posted this, I saw Earl posted something...
Just wanted to throw a few things out there: Make sure you have adequate dwell time for the presoaks to soak into the bugs; make sure your softeners are working (assuming you have them being a touchless wash); and especially with cooler outside temps coming around, make sure your heating your...
Check and make sure the low pH detergent you are putting on prior to the mitter clothes is being used at an apporipriate dilution ratio; using a titration kit or test strip to make sure the solution being dispensed is actually on the acidic side of the equation
Low ph detergent
If you have a foaming application prior to the mitter curtians, play around with a good low ph detergent. The majority of the bacteria Forming on cloth tends to flourish in a high ph environment. Significantly dropping the ph can clean and prevent further bacterial growth. At...
A good polish will aid in the drying process by helping the water bead and prepare the vehicle surface for any sealants or protectants that go on the car at the end. Also it should shine the paint a little. A suggestion to you would be to run 2 low pH conditioners, and just one polish (as the...
I think you got it right when by saying to replace the other low pressure wax with a tire and wheel cleaner. Instead of having 2 functions with identical proprieties, you know add a function and improve on an existing one. What's the point in applying 2 kinds of spray waxes to the vehicle...
1 or 2 sets of cta's? Where are they placed in the wash prior to the high pressure rinse? Also if 2 cta's whats the set up? Alkaline then an acid? Acid , acid? What's the strength of your wheel cleaners? 10 drops? 20 drops? What spray tips are you using in the Cta's?
Thanks for the input. I must have the "newer" mixing tanks, because I've had one tank for almost a year and the other about 7 months. Their hasn't been any consistency issues as far as the strength goes. My rep did an initial cost per car upon set up, and since then, about once a month, he will...
I agree with Mac on the flow testing side of things to figure out a dilution ratio. I'm just wondering, if you're "into" powder products, why not sniff around Blendco? I know they have done a really good job at a system that self mixes itself. Why not have the cost savings of powdered chemicals...
I know for the tri-color foambrush, BlendCo recommends 13-15cc (roughly half an oz) per gallon of water. I would pull some volumetrics on it and see if your using less than that. Secondly, to avoid overuse of the chemical (instead of just ripping out the orifice tube and sticking a tip on...