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What are you doing for water treatment before your boiler or other heater?

THAT makes more sense.

Hmmm. Why not use lower energy (pressure) RO membranes to achieve the same or higher gpm output?

The pump we'd spec for two 4040 membranes like yours is slightly larger: GOULDS PUMP, MULTI-STAGE, 1.5 HP, 110/220V 1 PH and it is pricier than what you're looking at now.

yep - I was looking at the wrong pump

You don't need the carbon in the sediment filter. All the chlorine should have already been removed by your backwashing carbon tank. At what pump pressure did you run the system at when it was working correctly? Would you provide a link to the F&W Booster Pump 1HP/1PH (#57170-1FW) you're...

IS that 50 psi when water is flowing? Or is that a static pressure?

The advice above is good. Make sure you don't have anything limiting flow upstream of the sediment filter. At a minimum that typically includes a backwashing carbon tank and a single or twin alternating water softener. Assuming there's nothing limiting flow, and your sediment filter isn't...

Also - make sure your RO is dialed in regarding the pump pressure, recovery (permeate flow) concentrate flow, and recycle flow (if any). We often find when we do maintenance on RO systems that the owner has no idea how these variables should be set. That's the first place my mind goes if...

Your tankless water heaters will have "maximum total hardness" limits in the fine print.

A softener will not handle ferrous iron levels over about 1 ppm for long. You'll need a separate iron filter... depending upon what "high" iron means. Iron is often accompanied by high manganese and H2S - make sure those are tested for as well.

I guess it depends upon what you mean by "appears the whole thing is compromised." What, specifically, is the problem?

Likewise, if you have some water treatment equipment (e.g., backwashing carbon tank, single or twin water softener, RO system) I'd look at maintenance and/or repair before replacement. Pics of this equipment can get us started here. Russ

In general, I'd stay away from the units at the big box stores that have the mineral tank inside a plastic cabinet. In my experience they work ok when new but are constructed of very low end plastics and the plastic parts get brittle and snap off when it comes time for maintenance. I'd also...

There's 2 generations that were raised with the assumption that "self-esteem" is all important and they were essentially convinced that they are the all-important center of the universe.

Yep - chloramine will prompt use of a different media in the tanks, use of larger tanks (like your 24" x 72" or larger tank) and more media to get longer contact times. Chloramine = Chlorine + ammonia

Can't say I'm familiar with that particular model, but it's probably a 13" x 54" tank. Total volume of that tank is about 3.7 cuft and it's typically loaded with up to 2.5 cuft of carbon. https://www.buckeyehydro.com/gac-granular-activated-carbon-1-cuft/ So first, talk to your water utility...

At least in your backwashing tank you should be getting 5 years of life out of your carbon. The life span of the carbon in the non backwashing tank is another thing. That carbon bed never get reclassified or mixed/shuffled (as happens during backwash) so its likely the carbon that gets hit...

With non-backwashing carbon tanks, best to have either really low sediment levels in the feedwater, or put an appropriately-sized sediment filter ahead of the tank. Have you tested the effluent for chlorine? FilmTec membranes (for instance) can handle exposure to free chlorine up to 200 to...

For those with spot-free rinse, how are you removing chlorine or chloramine from your municipal water before it reaches your RO membranes? Backwashing carbon tank? Non-backwashing carbon tank? Carbon block cartridge(s)?