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A titration kit is for using a known molarity product of opposite pH to measure how much alkalinity or acidity there is in the sample. For example, if you titrate the stock solution (undiluted) at 500 drops, then test a final dilution of 50 drops, you know you diluted at 10%. Using the same...

It might just be that nobody wants to give a few million dollars worth of advice for chump change... And it could be that you are hearing a rabbits answer to a wolf's question about a good place to eat. You will find the gambit of operators here, but I think you already have the answers you...

There should be no connection in the emitter for the black wire... Only in the receiver. Not sure how you would be getting voltage from the emitter when it's not supposed to be connected. It's a good plan to keep those separate anyway... I'm not sure why rytec would have wiring diagrams showing...

What happens when you have the red or white wire off? Do you know how to set the limits? That one should be set to allow they eye to work until the door is at the level of the eye. Then the signal will be bypassed by the limit switch (eye will then be ignored until door is above eye level again.)

68%? Did you buy and sell this year? What state are you in? That's crazy! And the crazier part is that that must me low compared to historical taxes...? And future tax guesstimates?

Compressors have to start heavily loaded, so I would expect the large capacitor was needed. It's important that the tubing between the compressor head and the tank check are unloading after a run, so that the next start will not be too hard on the motor and capacitor. Is it unloading...

Do you have any 'before' pics?:p. Hope it's a barn burner!

It sounds like you want what you are getting out of...? If you want what you had, a pile of car washes for sure isn't it. If you are trying to avoid tax, is now the time to avoid it?

No. As in put the black lead from the meter on 0vdc. Don't ground anything! I just looked back and you labeled it 24vdc- which means the same thing. So put the black lead on the wires from the orange wire nut in the pic.

There is no risk in connecting or disconnecting the red and white wire. That is exactly what the limit switch is doing. You would use a voltmeter to measure the signal output of the sensor. Meter on dc, black lead on 0vdc, red lead on the black wire from the receiver.

They're individually fused, but probably on the transformer secondary. If you remove the transformer like I mentioned, you will also remove the fuses. That's why I said you would need to add them. Burning up a component will only blow a fuse if it's pulling too many amps while doing so...

You wrote NC for the black photo sensor wires... Does that mean not connected? I think I see a black wire connected to the photo input on the board. That should be your 'signal' wire. Then you would just unhook the red and white wires to eliminate the limit switch overriding the photo eye...

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If the utility company had something wrong, you would have larger sparks than those board components. If main power from the building goes directly to the transformer for the bay, you are looking at a miswire situation. Someone may have landed a hot wire in the wrong spot there. I dislike...

Where do the grey wires in the nut go? Are they the third wire in the cable going to the sensors? Are you sure you have the correct sensors? They need to be PNP type for Windstar doors I'm pretty sure. Trying to judge by the pictures, it appears the limit would be the grey cam that has the...

You could wire around the limit switch. Just follow the wires up to the limit and wire the signal wire to the control board instead of the cam/limit. Are the correct sensors installed? Have they been switched?

The limit switch might not be set right for the eye. They signal from the eye is wired through a limit cam. Typically it's set to work until the door reaches the height of the eye.

Based on Dan's component ID, I would consider what MEP said, and also verify that one of the 'electricians' didn't land a line wire somewhere like possibly on a contactor overload relay (electricians are used to doing that to break the control circuit). In that case, all would work fine until...

Not sure what we're looking at there, but I would start with an ammeter on the timed load and run each option and verify nothing is pulling more than 2 amps. Have these boards been installed on the same equipment for a long time?

Trying to find an old picture where someone bolted the pumps and motors to a wood 2x4 frame with particle board under the pump and motor. It worked like you think, so they put a 2x4 wedged between the motor and pump. Permanently solved! I just removed a Mark VII pump stand and tank mixing...