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You are asking some really good questions, sorry I don't have answers to all them...But can tell you, my Takagi heater is about 10-11 years old now....It was origianlly pressurized to 10psi....I haven't touched it or added anything to it in 10 years running the same old black plastic water...
Can you measure the O'ring? Looks more like a plunger O'ring? Hard to tell what size it is from the picture. You might also be right that it is from the bad unloader and got bypassed back to the pump? If its a plunger O'ring, it will fill the crankcase with water quickly....
Looking at our forecast here in Southern Ohio, I think I'll go ahead and shut down today through about next Wednesday-Thursday. Even though I have the CW equiped for bitter cold and can stay open, I've had cars wash at -5° with no doors. Getting too old to fight this Sh$t any more. I'll leave...
When shutting down, don't forget to cover your pits in the bays. Mine are about 8' long and I cover them with a 2x10...it covers the drain holes and helps keep the pit from freezing
Interesting.....The Ruud is classified as a boiler, but will only put out 4.5 gpm at 77° rise...My takagi puts out 6 gpm at 50° rise....(from 55°-70° temp return from the bays to 105° heater setpoint temp. Not much difference... Also note the Ruud is listed as a combi boiler...You sure this is...
Can someone smarter than me put this in a nut shell? I understand that we are required to register as owner/operators. But what is this BOI or Small Entity Compliance Guide "Actually" going to be used for? All this information should be readily available with our LLC filing. I have read through...
" The willful failure to report complete or updated beneficial ownership information to FinCEN, or the willful provision of or attempt to provide false or fraudulent beneficial ownership information may result in a civil or criminal penalties, including civil penalties of up to $500 for each day...
You might also check for a throttling needle valve on the soap and wax....Some metering valves are built into the solenoids, Kip for instance. You can increase/decrease flow into the pump without having to change a tip. Thats why its so hard to offer advice on what size tip to use. Too many...
CantBreak80, Your solution makes perfect sense on a new install. Although, there are not too many new installs on this forum. Most posts are updates to the OLD OLD warn out boilers where owners choose to use the tubing that is already in place. So balancing valves are required...Just making sure...
Looking at the photo, the BV at the left is the truck bay (bay 4) which is 3 bays from the ER. The BV is wide open. Bay 3 is closed just a little more than bay 4. Bays 3 and 4 are on either side of the ER, so the BV's are closed even more and positioned the same since they are the same distance...
You balance the zones by using the ball valves on the manifold. My furthest bay I have the ball valve wide open...You throttle the rest of the zones so each zone slab temps are as close to 40° as possible. Head pressure for all zones will be different, so the zone with the least length will get...
I am assuming you are sure the motor is bad? They don't go bad very often....Did you rule out the contactor as being the issue? Since you are a new owner...Just trying to cover all bases...You can push the bar in the middle of the contactor to eliminate contact issue and to test the motor...But...
So again, wax will work identically to soap. Both are pulled into the HP pump with vacuum. Since it looks like you only have a cold water tank, I don't think its a vacuum issue. The only other thing to check is the wax solenoids or a check valve in line with the hydrominder tanks...I also see...
And you think CC fee's will go down once they get their way with a cashless society? Think again...Also, I'd rather my $$$ go back into the economy from the normal mom and pop shops and people struggling to make a living...JMO