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It would be an endstop prox or arm prox, not the Ultrasonic. You could also be loosing a bayplate signal. If its hitting the end stop hard, then all the drive speeds need to be adjusted.

Chems are the main cost difference. Do you want to buy soap every two weeks or every 4 months? The other issue is when placed side by side, people choose the brush machine 2:1.

If I had to choose between those three, I would choose McNeil hands down. I have dealt with all three and without getting into specifics the McNeil wins unless it becomes a decision based on your local distributors.

Check the amperage of each leg of each motor while its running. Make sure EVERY connection is VERY tight (ALL lugs on contactors and overloads). What is the duration between motors starting and how many motors start at one time? Only starting two at a time with a seven second delay between the...

What is it made out of?

The trio is no more and have not seen the new wash yet. I would go with the Softgloss if you have a bay big enough. I just sold a used softgloss with a code a wash and AMTT coinbox for under $25,000. This did not include installation. It was to a customer who has had a Voyager for over 20 years...

We replace seals when they go out, other wise we just replace the whole thing.

Electric, top brush, gantry and then stick with a proven design. The Ryko will last over a million washes if you take care of it and find the customers.

MacNeil is a great conveyor; both Ryko and Bellanger have created hybrid versions of the basic in ground MacNeil conveyor. What type of controller does it use (is it PLC or PC based)?

You could use the wash to do most of what you want to do, it all depends on what program and revision level you currently have. Its fairly cheap to upgrade to a newer program if needed. Here is something I found for the Softgloss XS: TSpryRkrPnl? YES/NO Answer “YES” if tire chemical will be...

I have a used A4000 sitting on my desk that was just replaced with one we got from Ryko, these are remans and MUCH cheaper than new. You might try calling Ryko and see if what they have in stock might work. I have been ordering A LOT of PDQ parts from Ryko lately and they seem to always have...

Red Foaming Detergent Concentrate Bubble Gum Scented 14470-022 (15 Gallon) Yellow Foaming Detergent Concentrate Bubble Gum Scented 14470-021 (15 gallon) Blue Foaming Detergent Concentrate Bubble Gum Scented 14470-023 (15 Gallon) Red Foam Wax Concentrate Cherry Scented 11773-243 (15 Gallon)...

Most Softglosses will have the Tri foam Detergent rather than the tri foam wax. When they have the tri foam wax, it will usually will have the tri detergent too. The tri foam wax is not followed by a brush pass, it is applied and then rinsed off with wax or Rain Shield followed by RO (if equipped).

Ryko actually uses a tri foam wax which can be used in either a touch-less or foambrite wash and goes on just before the wax in either wash. The tri foam detergent is for a brush wash only and is applied at the beginning of the wash process. The tri foam wax does bead water but is mostly for...

I think the only thing he will be converting is the side brushes. I dont think anyone makes foam miters and I doubt the wash can be converted to a top brush. Foam is lighter than cloth so there should be less wear and tear. I am not sure it will necessarily clean any better but it is much...

I am not sure its a front arm prox since there are never any codes and why would it only happen when the top brush is getting ready to drop? You would think if it were intermittently turning on, you would see it act up in other phases of the wash cycle. Have you looked at either one of the...

What he says maybe true, the only way to know is either by confirmation from the Ryko program engineer or by testing it with a toggle switch hooked to one of the front prox inputs. If he called customer service and this is what they told him, I would just change it out since installing a switch...

Most motor shops will tell you to replace rather than rebuild unless its 25 HP or larger. I would check the current draw with an ammeter. I have seen "noisy" motors run a long time. I like to get every ounce of service from most parts. Might be best to get a new one and have it on hand.

That may keep it from dropping but I thought the problem was it dropped but did not spin. Did you have the tech adjust/check the hysteresis overload?

Most likley not the unloader spring since I doubt it would be intermittent. To check the unloader simply screw and unscrew it and watch for the pressure to go up and then back down as you unscrew. Maybe try taking it apart and checking for debris. I would also check any valves in the system.