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Its been too long ago, but I remember checking each bay slab with an infrared gun and making manifold adjustments based on surface temps. But I might have also checked the return temp of each bay/zone with the infrared gun to tweak...Sounds like you are on the right track, just need to throw...

I'm just wondering if my lines are closer to the surface of the concrete than yours are and making a difference? Mine has been set the same way for over 10 years and don't have to touch a thing? The return aquastat should be all thats needed, but I understand the reasoning about having a slab...

I moved PS off the HP gun to the Tri Foam gun and customers love it. Much easier to push PS through a larger gun nozzle than the small ~2506~ HP wand nozzle...

This winter is putting your new floor heat through its paces! Reminds me of 2014 just after I got mine installed only it was actually worse then... Just checking to see if you have it dialed in yet? We are in for another winter advisory for tomorrow and Wednesday here in Southern Ohio...Models...

You're lucky thats all he did....I've been around here for a long time and see posts where people start tearing $hit up when something doesn't work they way they "Think" it should! I had a guy at my wash that owned a cw from a neighboring town. He said he had to give it up because people were...

Here is a thread I started over 12 years ago where you might get some help? I used output 2 on the weepmiser to turn the system on at 32° using a relay to carry the load. Then used an Aquastat in the return glycol from the bays to cycle the demand heater pumps on/off. The zone pump stays on 100%...

Yes, and its getting a workout this winter...It still keeps bay floors ice free below 32° and still doesn't cost an arm and a leg to operate it!....

Find your SFR delivery pump and trace the wiring back to the panel. You should be able to find the correct motor starter that way.

Another example would be like this. Its the device on the left side of the enclosure. It will have larger leads in the top and bottom (Lines and Loads) and smaller wires for the coil contacts. It functions as an electronic switch to turn on/off your load (motor). This is what controls my...

The only issue I see with using an HE tank style water heater like the HTP after re-reading your original post, you have an auto bay....You would have to make sure the 1" inlet/outlet plumbing is large enough to carry the GPM for all the bays and auto. I have 4 self serve bays and it works well...

I did all the calcualtions when I installed a new hot water system back in 2014... Ourtown touched on pretty much every way you can use a demand heater, but like he said there are limitations. If I were to have gone that route, I would supply a holding tank with the demand heater which would...

I'm guessing that 99% of all 1st time buyers knows nothing about carwash equipment...I was one of them!

You are right. I ran it through the 5 micron filter for at least a day using a sump pump in a 15 gallon soap drum.

Did you ever run a 5 micron filter inline to get all the crud out? My current duke bill is half yours, but understandable! I'll take it. I couldn't afford to run the old boiler that was in there. $150.89 is just additional rider fee's! Last month total was $268.34...

Something is not making sense...At the beginning of the cycle, mine scrubs off 35°, from 90° out to 55° return...I get right at 5.9-6.0gpm with one heater. Its been that way for 10 years without touching a thing or cleaning the tiny filter. I'm out of suggestions for you except keep raising the...

I set mine up at 32° or there abouts...At 32° after it normalizes and heater set to 105°, my cycle times are 15 minutes on/15 minutes off with a 15° differential from 55° to 70°. Glycol going to the bays is 90°. At 15° OAT, the system automatically adjusts and on time is about 18 minutes/off...

I also have heat cable for redundancy! LOL...And very well insulated with no air space in the trough.

Your flow must be higher than mine since you are getting 6 min on/6 min off...I'm at 15 min on/15/ min off...with a 15° differential. So its not allowing the concrete to soak like mine is. Can you change the differential to 20° or even higher? It will let the concrete warm up more over a longer...

For my trough heat loop....I lose very little heat (only a few degrees) between supply and return since its insulated so well. So maybe a non issue for Ourtown??

I don't have to make any changes... But I would imagine tubing depth might make a difference? But not sure. Yea, I'm still at 105° heater setting, return stat on at 55° off at 70°....This winter and last winter I just started shutting down when it gets this cold. But I still leave the floor heat...