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Fleck valves... ugh. They work fine - until they don't. And then they are a pain to work on - especially if you have to replace the guts of it. I'd agree with MEP - either a switch or the motor is bad. Or the piston and seals/spacers need to be replaced. Rather than fixing it... are you up...

True. But if this is just for one or several vehicles, the tank (brute trash can works great) and small pump and tubing you need will be very low cost relative to the resin you'll blow through over and over again.

CR Spotless systems are DI resin cartridges - they don't use an RO membrane.

RO is a water purification device - you can be into a unit for personal use for less than $200 and you can use it for your drinking water as well. Will produce spot free rinse water.

Dumping 300+ ppm TDS water into DI resin is a crazy expensive way to rinse a car. Either send the water through an RO first, or just use RO water for your rinse.

When you clean out your brine tank, its a good time to pull the brine valve assembly out of the brine well. You'll see an air check valve at the bottom - this is where fresh water enters the brine tank and where the brine exits the tank. Hit this check valve with a garden hose and then tilt...

Snatch it up while you can. Tractor Supply's price on line for Diamond Chrystal is $5.99 / bag, or $5.69 if you buy 20+ bags. Home Depot has it for $4.92/bag @ 6+ bags.

I think that's a good move. Someone is gong to have to be onsite to noodle through the situation. AND... you might want to look at your SOP's re softener maintenance.

If you're regenerating very often like once a day its unlikely salt bridging would be an issue. We most often see it in situations that regen less frequently. Most recently in a twin 1 cu ft system that fed a boiler with low demand. Brine tank filled to the brim - had become a solid block of...

Some input for you: Although it can work for some people (chief among them is apparently MEP), it is not advisable to keep your salt bin (aka brine tank) filled to the top with salt. Simply keep the salt level above the water level in the brine tank. Have your softeners gone 10 years without...

The dark gray wall panels - are those poly or metal? I think you'll need to use an acid - one strong enough to do the job but not so strong that it will attack the surface. Some careful trials may be in order. Lime A-Way CLR Invisible Shield Limescale and Stain Remover Vinegar Diluted...

FW is a brand name. Are you referring to FW Nylon tubing?

It's certainly not the market into which we sell nearly all of the PE tubing. Good to know. What was your experience with LLDPE tubing?

No. Our tubing is linear Low-Density Polyethylene.

Our 1/4" polyethylene tubing is rated at 217 psi at 70F. It is very inexpensive - I'd expect the cost of new tubing would not be the issue here - running new lines on the other hand might be a PITA.

I think all you need is tempered glass. Scale will build up on anything if your water is hard. Do you not have a functioning softener?

Yep - at one extreme, I've seen a brine tank, with the cap off the brine well, filled to the very top. Softener wasn't working... go figure. And many times I've seen little to no salt at all in the brine tank. Softener doesn't work in this situation either. We've seen salt bridging as well -...

40 lbs of big pellets = 40 lbs of small pellets for that matter. Your softener valve is programmed to inject x gallons of water into the brine tank, and that water will dissolve salt at the rate (roughly) of 1 gallon water to 3 lbs of salt. Doesn't matter what form that salt is in. So...

Nope - they still do that on Bonaire. Much has changed on the island, but those salt basins near the south end are still the same.

Sounds like the salting settings on your two softeners were different. If so... that's and apples to oranges comparison. Your salting levels are adjustable in your valve programming.