Recent content by Buckeye Hydro

Can't say I've ever installed a high pressure version, but they are available. E.g., https://www.mcmaster.com/cadinlnord%2f3842k63/

I suspect you will spend more buying parts to assemble your own RO than you will buying one assembled. My advice is to buy one.

There's not enough profit in the parts to cover design of a one-off system. You'd be better off buying a system

No. Here's some RO-related jargon for you: FEEDWATER: The water coming to the RO system inlet. Typically this water has been pretreated to remove hardness (by a softener) and has been treated to remove chlorine or chloramine (by a backwashing carbon tank). PERMEATE: aka - "RO water." This...

No one is going to offer you free design consulting.

Is this a system you are building from scratch yourself (I don't recommend this, unless you already know what you're doing)?

As your question is one that comes up in car washes, I'll jump in here. In general, do not use the flow restrictor/needle valve on your concentrate to achieve any particular pressure. Use the valve instead to achieve a particular flow. In order to do this you'll need a flow gauge on the...

As an option - might also consider installing a tattletale gauge that will show the highest pressure reached.

Hmm. There should be no water getting into the gauge. The recommendation to use gauges that are about 2x your expected pressure comes from the fact that gauges have their least error near the center of their range.

Liquid-filled gauges are nearly always a better choice - much more durable - especially when you have fluctuating pressure that bounces the needle around. I'd try one more gauge w/o going to the trouble of installing a valve... but this time tighten it with a wrench.

Are you using gauges that are almost completely filled with glycerin/silicone? Or are you using dry gauges? Regardless, it looks like that gauge is leaking and the pressurized water is making its way into the gauge. Most often we see that when people screw the gauge in by hand and use the...

Ugh. 1. You'll need to drain, clean, and sanitize that holding tank. 2. Because that system set unused for 18 months, you'll want to strip out the system membranes, and toss them. Before you do, take a picture of the label on the membrane and vendors like us can use that info to provide you...

Fluid O Tech makes good pumps. So 1.8 GPM allows for 0.8 gpm permeate a 1.0 gpm concentrate. That's not enough concentrate with a 4" membrane. You adjust the outlet pressure of the pump. You can run an HF5 (80 psi) membrane at much higher pressures. Running it at pressures higher than 80...

Your pump is putting out 110 psi. Nothing unusual there. A 2540 membrane would typically put out between 650 and 1000 gpd, or 0.45 to 0.7 gpm. Your permeate gauge reads about 0.86 gpm, or 1200 gpd. In other words it is reading too high. Either your concentrate flow gauge is not working, or...

Membranes are spec'd by the manufacturer at a certain pressure. This is the pressure at which they tested the membrane during design. So at 77F and x psi, the membrane will produce y gallons. So when users ask "How can I get faster production from my RO system?" one common answer is to add...