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Rotary switch problem

Ric

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For 30+ years I used Electroswitch 8 position rotary switches. They were practically bullet proof. On a very rare occasion I would have to replace one because it became hard to turn. Nine months ago I added some new services and went to a Shallco 10 position rotary switch. I have already had 2 failures in which the switch basically "froze up" and would no longer turn. What's going on?
 

MEP001

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They're garbage. I helped someone with a remodel once and he ordered the Shallco switches. They all wore out in less than a year, some wouldn't turn and some were so sloppy it was pointing to the wrong function by the time it clicked to the selection. His old ones (Electroswitch) were 20 years old.
 

MEP001

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It's numbered on the face of the discs that you can't see in the photo.
 

mjc3333

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I've had the same problem with both brands for the past 3 years. I used to have heat tape in the bay door, but stopped using it because of a room issue. Doors are old round monorail. The end of the switch actually rusts out. The switch itself is fine. I would assume the heat would dry up any moisture that would in turn prevent the switch from rusting. Ric do you have heat tape or a heat stick in your coin acceptors?
 

mjc3333

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For 30+ years I used Electroswitch 8 position rotary switches. They were practically bullet proof. On a very rare occasion I would have to replace one because it became hard to turn. Nine months ago I added some new services and went to a Shallco 10 position rotary switch. I have already had 2 failures in which the switch basically "froze up" and would no longer turn. What's going on?
Ric I had the same problem with both brands since I removed my heat tape from the bay doors. Do you have heat tape in the bay doors?
 

RAATCB

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I've been using electro switch 8pos 2stack for many years. If your rotary switch gets wet a lot, try putting dielectric grease or white grease between the shaft and the outside area around the threads. It will prevent rust build up.
 

MEP001

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You can also get a shaft boot from Etowah Valley that seals water out. That and a dab of dielectric grease should prevent rust 100%.
 

RAATCB

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You can also get a shaft boot from Etowah Valley that seals water out. That and a dab of dielectric grease should prevent rust 100%.
Never knew they made a shaft boot. I have a 4 bay wash and my meter boxes are in the middle (worst design imo) that always gets wet. Usually the switches will last 2+ years until I feel the knob turning hard.
 

2Biz

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Ric

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MEP001

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That looks like it will work. I looked in Mouser's catalog but I didn't find one even close to the right size.
 

2Biz

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According to the Electroswitch website, the switch we use has a 15/32- 32 thread, which I have never heard of! I checked the OD of the threads and at first thought it was a 12mm fine pitch...

Should be here this week. Will definitely let you know if it fits. Like Mep said, adding a little anti-seize or seal grease, and maybe we'll get more life out of our rotaries...
 

mac

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To help with longevity I take the trusty WD40 with the little hose and squirt directly inside the switch through one of the empty screw holes.
 

2Biz

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Rotary Switch Seals

I got the rotary Switch Seals in today. They fit the electroswitch perfectly and looks like they will definitely help keep moisture out....Damn, the new smart phones take great pictures, even closeups!





 

Ghetto Wash

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Are you going to use the "seal" nut to mount the switch to the door?

Or perhaps another jam nut against the "seal" nut to prevent it from spinning over time?

Just trying to figure out how exactly that seal will be used.
 

2Biz

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Are you going to use the "seal" nut to mount the switch to the door?

Or perhaps another jam nut against the "seal" nut to prevent it from spinning over time?

Just trying to figure out how exactly that seal will be used.
Good question, and one that I was already contemplating! The nut is metal and also has a rubber sealing surface on the face of the nut that could go against the faceplate or the face of the outside nut. I'm hoping there are enough threads left on the switch to mount the switch as usual (nut on inside of faceplate and one outside) and run this nut against the outside nut. I'll let you know what it looks like all stacked up.
 
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