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Hot water tank float/fill valve - Are there any that aren't complete rubbish?

Car_Wash_Guy

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Earl Weiss

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I also got fed up and tried numerous options listed on this forum. My Tunnels have a "break Tank" and I used this

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-12901-573-hydrominder-float-valve-only-no-mounting-bracket.aspx

So I now use it in the SS rinse tank.

If you need a mounting Bracket

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-12900-572-hydrominder-float-valve-only-with-mounting-bracket.aspx

For most convenient swap out when it fails, about once a year or so I keep a spare on the shelf and a rebuild kit.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-12761-hydro-10091906-diaphragm-kit.aspx

I swap out the one on the shelf and rebuild the other and put that on the shelf for the next year. Then order a spare rebuild kit.
 

MEP001

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I've had good luck with the Walters valve, better with the 1" over the others for some reason. Their quality control has gone downhill lately, the last couple the float didn't move freely and they overfilled. I'll still use them as I've tried every other option and none were any better. I've used and installed at others' washes the 1" Hydrominders and will never use or recommend them again - they fail closed which is a much bigger problem than overfilling.
 

Earl Weiss

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I've used and installed at others' washes the 1" Hydrominders and will never use or recommend them again - they fail closed which is a much bigger problem than overfilling.
Interesting. 3 Tunnel break tanks and one SS Tank. Failure was always not fully closing.
 

2Biz

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When putting in new float tanks over 4-1/2 years ago, I installed 1" Walters in both Hot and Cold tanks. I've never had the first issue with either. These valves are 2 stage and eliminates all water hammer which I had with the original Cleveland Valves. I don't know how many over flowed tanks I had before switching to Walters. I'm not seeing the problems you guys are having with the Walters... BUT I do run zero grain hardness water...Maybe that's the key???
 

Kevin James

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Why not use a 24 volt solenoid valve and float switch or float ball.
 

GoBuckeyes

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I have had great luck with Jobe valves. I started out with this one for a 5 bay self serve holding tank. It’s been in service for at least 4 years and I haven’t had to touch it. Water temp is about 110-120 at that site.

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-27615-jobe-1-topaz-standard-float-valve.aspx

After testing the above valve for a year, I then installed two Topaz Industro valves at a high volume two bay laser site. Water temp there is between 120 and 130. After 2.5-3 years I had one fail (wouldn’t completely shut off) the other is still ticking. Took all of 5 minutes to swap in new diaphragm. Highly recommend

https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-27147-jobe-1-topaz-industro-hi-temp-float-valve.aspx
 

Car_Wash_Guy

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Thanks guys for all the help and advice! I think I have it solved!

I went ahead and ordered the one that Earl suggested. In the meantime I went down to my local pump place and they had a SOLID brass , 3/4" water fill valve with a 12" rod and large 6" float. I figured I'd try that in the meantime the other float arrives.

Seems to be working OK!

I also found another ( the causing ) problem....A bad check valve from the holding tank to one of the pumps which was back feeding cold water into my holding tank causing it to overflow. Boy do I feel stupid!
 

APW

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I've got this same problem. I found one bad check valve and replaced it but my tank still overflows. I installed a new hudson valve but it still does it. The problem is I can never catch it doing it. I've tried each bay individually and the tank never overflows when I am there.
 

slash007

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I started using this Hudson Valve https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-2019-hudson-float-valves-high-temperature-1.aspx after having my hydrominder fail and getting a recommondation on this forum. Almost 3 years so far with no issues at 2 locations and it's dirty cheap. I keep an extra just in case.
Anyone had luck repairing this valve? The whole valve is cheap so it's not a huge deal, but I just had one fail and putting in the repair kit didn't fix it. I ended up putting on a spare. There are not many parts to it, so not sure why replacing the diaphragm and plastic ring around it didn't fix the issue.
 

DiamondWash

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Repairing is out I too tried to repair the Hudson and it just failed again, I just replaced it with a new one and haven't touched it yet.
 

slash007

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For $27 I'll just replace it, takes 2 minutes. I did waste $6 trying to repair it, but had to try lol. Still much cheaper than the other valves and very easy to replace.
 

slash007

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No, but for $27 and over 3 years on the Hudson valve, I don't' see a reason to switch. I could buy several for the price of a Jobe.
 

water guy

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Well I use them in Both of My Washes. And use them in the Other 4 washes that I maintain. With very good luck.I guess it's a personal preference.
 

mjwalsh

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Why not use a 24 volt solenoid valve and float switch or float ball.
That what we have been using on seven small stainless steel individual tanks for each of our individual Cat 310s since 1987. The valve portion is a Dole Valve. Basically the same that is used on many washing machines but uses 24VAC instead of 120 or 230VAC. The good news they tend to never fail ... but the bad news is if they do fail it could leave the tank empty. Anybody use low water sensor alarms?
 

Car_Wash_Guy

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I went to my local irrigation supply store and bought a large brass valve that has been holding up great since this post.
 
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