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Flexible Bollards vs. Traditional

DiamondWash

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Had a customer decide I didn't need to have a bollard on one side of my self-serve bay door so he gracefully removed it by backing into it with his trailer and completely destroying it. To core drill these are a pain in the ass especially when there is floor heat around them, flexible bollards run from $300-$400 apiece and I just don't know if they are worth it or just replace with the traditional style. And to add insult to injury the customer who did this tells me he replaces these at banks all the time for his job.........soooo your telling me work must be slow and you decided to make some work for yourself Hmmm 🤔
 

traveler17

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Had a customer decide I didn't need to have a bollard on one side of my self-serve bay door so he gracefully removed it by backing into it with his trailer and completely destroying it. To core drill these are a pain in the ass especially when there is floor heat around them, flexible bollards run from $300-$400 apiece and I just don't know if they are worth it or just replace with the traditional style. And to add insult to injury the customer who did this tells me he replaces these at banks all the time for his job.........soooo your telling me work must be slow and you decided to make some work for yourself Hmmm 🤔
So I’m thinking he needs to replace it for you 😬
 

DiamondWash

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So I’m thinking he needs to replace it for you 😬
Oh, he is definitely going to be replacing it once the warm weather rolls around, it kinda scares me how easy it broke makes ya wonder about the rest of them and what to do about them because it's about $600 apiece to core drill these and replace the metal tube then fill it with concrete.
 

MEP001

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it's about $600 apiece to core drill these and replace the metal tube then fill it with concrete.
I've done it with a rented drill. Takes about an hour per hole, but you just set it up and it runs itself. A couple bollards at my wash were added later, someone just cut a 1/2" thick plate with a hole for the pipe, welded it on as a flange and bolted it down with 1/2" wedge anchors.
 

mjwalsh

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To protect our back shed when we had extra concrete we put in a very heavy gauge 6.5" diameter very deep with extra rebarred concrete placed deeply down low with it. I realize this not easy with deicer concrete which we did not have to deal with in the rear of our lot. It is pretty much for certain that our safety fluorescent painted pipe will damage most vehicles before it is affected by a hit.

I wonder about what some pipe- bollards have been tested to endure with honest engineering lab tests?! Amount of concrete with install ... gauge of metal factors etc?! BTW our referred to back shed has siding that is heavy gauge pretty corrugated stainless steel so we definitely would not want damage from a vehicle to it.

Hopefully some media or judge stooge would not rule against us in the event of serious damage to a careless driver's vehicle from our sturdy concrete filled pipe.
 
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