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Cat 310 Valves

Nuphoenix

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Can anyone tell me the size of the o-rings for the valve seats or where I can purchase them? None of my kits have that thin of an o-ring. Hate to spend all that money for the whole valve kit just because of o-rings. Also where can I get the back-up rings?
 

MEP001

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You can get the o-rings from Kleen-Rite. They're pretty cheap, it's the backup ring that's really expensive.


These parts are metric - you likely won't find them cheaper unless you order 10,000. The backup ring can be reused as long as it looks perfect, especially where the ends meet up. They would have to be custom-made and won't be cheaper. I tried to find a Parker Parback ring to fit but no one has been able to find them in the right size and thickness. I feel like that might hold up a little better and would also be less expensive.
 

Nuphoenix

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You can get the o-rings from Kleen-Rite. They're pretty cheap, it's the backup ring that's really expensive.


These parts are metric - you likely won't find them cheaper unless you order 10,000. The backup ring can be reused as long as it looks perfect, especially where the ends meet up. They would have to be custom-made and won't be cheaper. I tried to find a Parker Parback ring to fit but no one has been able to find them in the right size and thickness. I feel like that might hold up a little better and would also be less expensive.
I looked at all the cat 310 repair parts at KR and I could not find those O rings. Thanks a bunch for the links!!!
 

Nuphoenix

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Anyone know of an easy way to get a stuck valve seat out? I managed to get others out with an o-ring pick, but this one won't budge. I keep having pulsation problems on this pump. Found some used rings in a box, but they won't last a day. Does the backer ring go on the valve side or the bottom of the valve seat. Ones I took out were both ways.
 

MEP001

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There is a special tool, but even that will damage the seat if you don't get it just right. Try putting the plastic top back on without the spring and poppet and pull straight up gently with needle-nose pliers while moving it in a circle.

It sounds like the manifold is washed out. The o-ring or backup ring will hang up in the eroded groove. Look in the manifold where the o-ring should seat and see if there's a groove. There's lots of info and pictures here:

The backup ring goes on the bottom if the valve is sitting upright on a flat surface. I dip the assembled valve in oil before I install them to keep from cutting the o-ring.
 

Nuphoenix

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There is a special tool, but even that will damage the seat if you don't get it just right. Try putting the plastic top back on without the spring and poppet and pull straight up gently with needle-nose pliers while moving it in a circle.

It sounds like the manifold is washed out. The o-ring or backup ring will hang up in the eroded groove. Look in the manifold where the o-ring should seat and see if there's a groove. There's lots of info and pictures here:

The backup ring goes on the bottom if the valve is sitting upright on a flat surface. I dip the assembled valve in oil before I install them to keep from cutting the o-ring.
I'll take it apart again and make sure all the backup rings are on the bottom. Maybe I'll just use some old rings till KR decides to ship them to me with 15 bucks shipping.
 

Nuphoenix

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Where do you get the special tool? I was thinking of modifying some snap ring pliers to face out and try to wiggle them out.
 

cantbreak80

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Remove the cage, spring, and poppet.
Then, stick a 16p nail head through the open valve body, catch the edge of the nail head under the body and pull up on the nail with a pair of sturdy pliers.
 

Greg Pack

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mjwalsh

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My intention is not to change the subject of this thread ... but I notice that if someone is ordering a Cat 310 brand new from KR ... their Stainless Sleeved version is less than $100 more than the standard Cat 310. Is that SS version as good or possibly better than a resleeved rebuilt used Cat 310??? We were debating on maybe keeping a SS resleeved pump head but our luck there would be some other technicality besides than what is in the head.

We have a bay that occasionally pulsates & then goes away after about 5-10 minutes of futzing with running between soap, wax, & rinse. We can't seem to locate the air leak but I think I have a common denominator for the cause: Last weekend it happened 3 times. Every time I just happened to notice each specific customer using the presoak for longer than usual.

I am suspicious of an air check valve at the manifold close to the inside of bay center boom. Not sure if it is possible for a check valve to leak air backwards since it has never happened before??? I am thinking that maybe a weak spring inside of the presoak air check could cause air in the system??? Usually if that check valve fails it results in a ruptured plastic tube back to the equipment room.

If we put a brand new SS sleeved Cat 310 in place & it still happened ... it would rule out any possibility of any part of the pump causing the problem. We quadrupled checked all 3 of the tank float-water levels ... the wax, soap & rinse lines going into the inlet of the pump.

Intermittent problems are always the toughest it seems. X-ray vision would help but that is not one of my gifts!
 

MEP001

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A new pump would likely fix the problem since the problem is likely to be the presoak backing its way through the high pressure line, through the pump and into the plumbing and tank(s). Whenever I suspect this issue I test by running rinse until it's clear, running presoak or tire cleaner for 20 seconds or so, running spot free until it's clear (assuming spot free tee's in at the boom) and then running rinse again. You might get the tiniest bit of presoak or tire cleaner (I get none the way I do the manifold at the boom) but if you get a 2 or 3 second shot of chemical when you go to rinse, the presoak or tire cleaner is backing up into the line. The pump should not allow that to happen. This test will also let you find which pump is letting weep back to overflow your tank(s).

It's not a failed check valve at the boom. The check valve allows flow TO the bay. A check valve can't fail and let something flow in the direction it's made to flow. That would be a solenoid issue.
 
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