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I use these all over my car wash. They are a "delay on make" adjustable timer. They work forever and rarely fail. Artisan 438USA http://www.artisancontrols.com/Product_Details.aspx?PID=20&Type=Timer

EMax appears to be the old (or somehow related) Eaton Air Compresors. I bought an Eaton years ago...and was VERY satisfied. When the heavily used pump finally needed to be rebuilt....I replaced the pump with a used Champion unit. The Champion (R15) is a beast. I'll be dead before this setup...

My weepmizer had a wacky reading recently. I replaced the sensor with a new spare. The issue remained. I opened the unit up....and found two rotten traces in the PC board near the bottom. I repaired the traces by soldering a wire between the two points that the traces were connecting. Issue...

FWIW.....spraying the conical washers with Corrosion X (expensive, but worth every penny)....has stopped the rusting. Much, much longer life if the washers don't rust. My BR-5's still take a kit just fine.

FWIW....the storage tanks last a LOT longer if you change the anodes every two years or so. Spend the extra bucks and use Magnesium instead of aluminum.

I am able to run hot water to my high pressure selection via a ball valve. When the ice starts building....I turn on the hot water, and "cut" grooves into the ice in 2 foot by 2 foot squares. When the ice finally starts to melt (and loosen), it comes off in 2 foot squares. This way, it...

If you rely upon a single solenoid on the output of a pump for "shutting it off"....you'll eventually be sorry. My original wash had that setup. I arrived one morning to find that a solenoid had failed to close. Without a deadhead on the output....the pump ran wide open. A full barrel of...

My Cat 3535 feeds two Dema 458 solenoids. One solenoid opens to provide flow to the undercarriage flush....and the other one feeds high pressure to my spray arch for washing. They are NEVER programed to be open at the same time. Here's my issue.....the undercarriage solenoid isn't completely...

I bought a FlirOne Pro for my Android phone. It's a thermal camera attachment. It's allowed me to locate the heat loops in my floor heat. Like everything else....it's sitting on my shelf...unused. Should of, would of could of......

I was rinsing down a bay....when the pump just stopped. I went into the equipment room, and found the circuit breaker to the pump stand tripped. When I reset it....BANG! Smoke came out of the motor starter. (BTW...I hate it when the smoke comes out of electrical things....it's VERY difficult...

I have it from an unnamed source....that the Cherry Micro Switch D41X is a better replacement. Sturdier and more robust.

Two weeks ago....got an "unexpected coin drop" error on an ACW hopper. Checked the switch (old style)...looked clean....double checked the 1/8" adjustment....put back into service, and it worked well until yesterday. We got a "hopper coasting" error. Per this forum thread....installed a new...

If the bypass microswitch is NOT making a good connection between the red and white wire....the photo cell amplifier will be receiving a "weak" signal. Connect the red and white wires with a good jumper. See what happens. Again, I bet there's a good chance the photo eye system will shows...

Follow up question.... The mercury contactor in question controls either a 1/2 or 3/4 HP trolley motor in my automatic bay. At 120v...the amp draw is approx 10 or 13 amps depending upon which sized motor I use. My question... The mercury contactors are VERY reliable. I see that they are...

Today, I believe I had a mercury relay (DuraKool) intermittently fail ON. Is it possible for a mercury relay to fail ON? I can see how it can fail to close...but stick ON????

Check the red and white wire first.....both open and shorted. I bet that's your problem.

I agree. The more I look....it appears that the top limit switch (with the red and white wires)....is your "bypass" limit switch. It appears that the red and/or white wires attach somewhere close to the board....labeled PHOTO. Unhook the red and white wire at the limit switch. I bet nothing...

I can't tell from your picture. It looks like you have 4 limit switches. I'd bet that only 3 are wired (or in use). Trace the wires back to the end of the board. There's a 7 contact strip (abeam the 2 blue adjustable resistors). The left (first) contact is for close, the second is for...

I'd start by eliminating the bypass limit switch. I don't know if it works as normally open or normally closed.....I think mine is wired normally open. Remove the wire from the bypass limit switch....and see how that affects the photoeye operation. I bet that the microswitch has either...

Here's some technical information that (even if not exact)....may help you troubleshoot: