Recent content by pcb

Is your weep water getting to the pump? If so, if the ball valve is open and water isn't making to the bay it's either got an obstruction after the pump or may have frozen in the line somewhere already.

Looks like Mcneil to me.

Have you checked the valves in the pump? I've had problems from time to time where it will run fine on rinse because it's pressurized coming from city, but on soap and wax it's drawing from the tank. I would check for a broken o ring on the valve.

If it's brass and your in a bind, sometimes a pair of needle nose pliers will work if you have room to get them in. Extractors are best, but worth a try in a pinch.

Thanks for the info. Kind of what I expected. I have ICS at my express and getting help is always a problem. Especially getting them to let you talk to someone that actually knows what is going on. I'm having a problem with my access unit losing internet connection every night and having to be...

Did you wind up doing the ICS upgrade to the access unit? If so, how has it been working and what is a rough price on it?

Sometimes you can turn the gears on the side and it will start working. It's almost like it just sticks and needs some help to get going. If you need to replace, it can be found online for at least half the price of what PDQ charges and probably more. Bell ATM did have an advanced exchange where...

If you can't make your own hoses you might try getting them from Discount Hydraulic Hose. They'll crimp the ends for $10 I think. They have a hose called hydraulax that I've been using for hoses in the echain on a laser 360. Seems to last longer with the rubbing on the chain.

I don't know if M5 uses same codes as a 360, but it's Test 10 for stand alone dryers and Test 11 for onboard dryers.

If you have presoak and clearcoat that run off the high pressure pump you'll need a 3 stack to open the bypass solenoid on the pump.

I'm sure you've checked it, but could you have possibly gotten a motor with the wrong voltage? You could possibly block the hole for a motor and let it run on one at a time to see if it's the motor causing it. Not ideal but sounds like you've tried most everything else.

I've got a 1000T that I just put in a piece of the wall board from farmtek. It's not perfect but much better than before. Before this I had started putting cheap plastic sheeting down on the floor and everything will come out, but it's a pain to get it spread out by yourself. It worked great...

I got mine from Carolina Pride for the millennium doors and coleman doors. The DH replacements fit great and also keep the T handle lock.

We changed from ICS to Auto Data about a year ago and I think my guys have been fairly pleased with it. I don't work in there much but my manager hasn't complained since we installed it. Don't have experience with ISI but I think Auto Data is worth looking into.

To run the cable, cut the bad end off and tape very securely the new wires to it. Then trace where the cable goes and remove the covers at each junction going back to the control box. Pull the old cable toward the control box while feeding the new cable in. It's easier to pull from junction...